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It seems that gems divide into two categories: the diamonds, and the colored stones. Colored stones are not diamonds, although there are many different colors of diamonds. Many colored stones other than diamonds are, in fact, colorless. In addition, there is colored stone and colored stone! Rubies, sapphires, emeralds are definitely precious stones; probably so are the aquamarines and topazes, but others, such as garnet, spinel, zircon, quartz, tanzanite, how can we call them? semiprecious stones? Although an alexandrite can be worth much more than a diamond? Also, you have to explain that there are completely natural stones, completely artificial stones, and stones that are partially natural. I do not mean that there are only dangers and pitfalls; far from it! Dangers and pitfalls exist for those who ask for them, buying precious stones without having any knowledge on the matter, from incompetent sales people, perhaps abroad, combined with the illusion of some kind of big deal! Yes, because precious stones have unique characteristics: they give pleasure when you search for them, you enjoy every moment when you buy them, it’s a pleasure to give them as a present, it’s perfect when you have them on; and, if all goes well, they can also be of great satisfaction when, after years, or generations, you give them away. The joy linked to precious stones, to their color specifically, is banded together with many different cultural aspects. There is a sense of wonder and unwonted enclosed in a tiny piece of the planet, the romance of the exotic and the mystery, the sense of a deal. But the world has become smaller, and the price differences of a gemstone around the world is not great enough to justify the risk of no longer being able to track the seller in case of doubts or disputes. In summary: if you want to buy a precious stone, buy it for its beauty, for the pleasure that you can have upon seeing it suited or dressing yourself up with it, beware about easy business, and seek advice only to qualified professionals.
Herebelow, I outline some trustworthy comments for all colored gemstones.
Color. The color has to be loved. There are no edicts precepted from above, that determine that the dark sapphire is worth more than pale one. We willingly leave these rules to diamonds and their tables and patterns, so forget about the pigeon blood-red (poor pigeons), or Mary (Mother of Jesus)’s blue mantle. Look at many stones, and let yourself be guided by your personal taste; then if you should choose the emerald that is clear and bright rather than dark and murky one, this simply means that all is fine. Also, there are no two stones in nature with the exact sort of colour. However, since the buyer’s market requires some colors more than others, many ways to change the color of the stones have been exploited. Obviously, the stones from the natural color are worth more than those with a “reinforced”-color, and only a careful gemological testing can determine whether a natural stone has the natural color.
Transparency. The transparency of a stone is mainly influenced by two factors: color and inclusions. If the color is too dark, the gem loses in transparency, and even in its beauty. If there are too many inclusions inside, the gemstone dies out and is dirty.
Brightness. Brightness is in relation with transparency and cut. A faceted gem must shine, so it must not be too intense in color, fairly clear, and elaborated to highlight its luminosity.
Cut: faceted stones. Normally, faceted stones are so processed to enhance shine and color. The art of diamond cutting, which must always equal at a given schema, does not apply to colored stones. The cut must enhance the strengths and minimize the defects, and the rigor of the final geometry is secondary. A stone with a tall pavilion (also known as “the bottom half”), will shine more than a flat stone. This does not mean that colored stones are all crooked, but I’d be suspicious of batches of identical stones.
Cut: cabochon stones. While faceted stones have to burst rays of light and color to the outside, and are therefore created to be viewed from a distance; cabbed stones capture light and attention, they wish to be discovered intimately. An invitation to interiority.
Cut: calibrated stones. As previously stated, beginning at the moment of processing, precious stones must be experienced individually, in their intimate beauty and uniqueness. If the singularity of a stone is manipulated to market needs, that stone will be diminished in its preciousness and uniqueness. With all due respect for diamonds, for all the pavé, the contrarié and pairs.
Inclusions. In the diamond trade the rule is that inclusions are examined with a hand lens, magnified ten times. For colored stones, you need to know that you need to do without the lens. If, to the naked eye, the stone appears clear and transparent, it means that the inclusions do not disturb, and do not affect the value of the gem.
Origin. Sapphires from Sri Lanka, Ratnapura caves; Burna rubies from the Mogok region; Colombian Muzo emeralds. Currently, the most qualified gemological certificates do not cite the source, for the simple reason that the hundred percent positive identification of the source is rarely possible. Emerald can be good or bad whether it comes from Brazil or from Austria.
Optical phenomena. Especially cabochon stones may present optical phenomena such as chatoyancy (cat’s eye effect), asterism (starlike figures exhibited in reflected light), the color change effect (alexandrite, moonstone, labradorite), changes of different colors (Opal), showy pleochroism (the stone changes color simply by moving it, especially in polarized light, for eg andalusite). Many stones possess inclusions and striking designs, and they are desired for this.
Inclusions. Certain stones are sought for the beauty of their inclusions. Especially the quartz family can grant pictoresque impressions of indescribable winsomeness.When examined under a lupe or a microscope, almost all stones give warmhearted emotions; certain stones give this endearment to the naked eye.
Fossil inclusions. Extremely rare in transparent minerals, they made the fortune of amber, already delightful on their own, they acquire an almost magical meaning when, inside, they contain signs of the passage of life of millions of years ago. Sensations can be mighty up to perturbation with insect inclusions, or sweet and dreamy with flowers and leaves. Buying amber, do not forget the pleasure to examine it with the lens or, better, under the microscope.
Treatments. If a red ruby necklace releases its color on the sweater of its owner, we are in front of a cheap defraudment. Unfortunately, there are treatments which, if not stated, are just as deceiving, but not so easy to diagnose. The most common treatments are unidentifiable at a glance or with the magnifying glass, but require careful gemological testing. This is a large and difficult subject, and we will devote many pages to it.
Stones to award someone with. Stones are beauty, culture, fantasy, charm, magic, endowment, and a thousand other emotions. If you want to make a gift, I advise you not to be fascinated by advertising, and I also advise against “surprise gifts.” This kind of gift tends to turn the fantasy instead to turn it on. It would be much, much better to choose together. A very sad thing is when the gift is like a “good”; i.e., the search for something that you think will appeal to those who will receive it. If I make a gift, and I do not feel like shopping with a person, it is best I risk a little, put in some fantasy, instead of trying to guess what that person would have bought for himself.
Stones to reward oneself with. Collecting stones is an absolutely wonderful discipline, ‘that those who do not feel cannot understand’. Personally, I really love my gemstone collection, of which I am very jealous. I chose them for more or less irrational feelings that have attracted me, more than for their rarity or value. But you can set collections in a thousand different ways: alphabetical order, geographical source, crystallographic characteristics, you can collect crystals only, or just particularly rare stones, or only those with special optical phenomena … I was saying that I am jealous of my collection, and I know I am not the only one. It is rare for a collector to sell or exchange a piece of his collection.
What have we said in this section? Perhaps nothing important, but we have set the stage for a more detailed study on the stones, their color, their stories … Enjoy your journey!
